Development and Validation of an analytical method for the Identification and Quantification of Ceteareth in hair cosmetic formulations by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography with Refractive Index Detector (HPLC-RID)

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.33448/rsd-v15i5.51109

Keywords:

Hair Cosmetics, Surfactant, Refractive Index, Fouling.

Abstract

In Brazil, cosmetic products classified as Grade 1 are considered to pose low health risk, however, between 2022 and 2023, more than 700 cases of serious adverse events associated with the use of hair styling ointments were reported. During the investigations, the emulsifying agent Ceteareth was identified among the formulation components to be subjected to analytical testing in order to elucidate the possible causes of these adverse effects. The aim of this study was to propose the development and validation of a high-performance liquid chromatography method with refractive index detection (HPLC-RID) for the identification and quantification of Ceteareth in these cosmetic formulations. Initially, an ion-exchange column was used for method development; however, after identifying the occurrence of fouling caused by pore blockage, it became necessary to employ a size-exclusion chromatography column, which showed better performance and was therefore selected for the validation tests. The results demonstrated satisfactory performance regarding the evaluated analytical validation parameters, proving the method to be selective, linear, precise, and accurate, according to the criteria established by RDC No. 166/2017 of Anvisa and the DOQ-CGCRE-008 Guidance Document issued by Inmetro. Therefore, it was possible to conclude that the proposed method presents adequate applicability for the analysis of Ceteareth in hair styling ointments, in addition to contributing to the elucidation of serious adverse event cases.

References

ABIHPEC - Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos. (2026). Panorama do Setor de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos. https://abihpec.org.br/publicacao/panorama-do-setor-2026/

Ahmed, M. A., Amin, S., & Mohamed, A. A. (2023). Fouling in reverse osmosis membranes: Monitoring, characterization, mitigation strategies and future directions. Heliyon, 9(4), e14908. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e14908

Akter, M., & Park, J.-S. (2023). Fouling and mitigation behavior of foulants on ion exchange membranes with surface property in reverse electrodialysis. Membranes, 13(1), 106. https://doi.org/10.3390/membranes13010106

Allemand, A. G. S., & Deuschle, V. C. K. N. (2019). Formulações em cosmetologia. Grupo A. 9788595028159

Almeida, M. L. de. (2019). Estabilidade de emulsões de água-em-óleo sob ações eletrocisalhantes e campos elétrico e centrífugo [Tese de doutorado, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro]. Pantheon UFRJ. http://hdl.handle.net/11422/13605

Andersen, F. A. (1999). Final report on the safety assessment of Ceteareth-2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -7, -8, -9, -10, -11, -12, -13, -14, -15, -16, -17, -18, -20, -22, -23, -24, -25, -27, -28, -29, -30, -33, -34, -40, -50, -55, -60, -80, and -100. International Journal of Toxicology, 18(3 Suppl.), 41–49. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189901800306

Anvisa. (2023). Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária - Anvisa. Pomadas capilares para trançar, modelar ou fixar os cabelos: reunião técnica com o setor produtivo. Brasília, DF, 2023.

Beattie, J. W., Istrate, A., Lu, A., Marshall, C., Rowland-Jones, R. C., Farys, M., Kazarian, S. G., & Byrne, B. (2022). Causes of industrial protein A column degradation, explored using Raman spectroscopy. Analytical Chemistry, 94(45), 15703–15710. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.analchem.2c03063

Brasil. (2017). Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária - Anvisa. Resolução da diretoria colegiada – RDC nº 166, de 24 de julho de 2017. Dispõe sobre a validação de métodos analíticos e dá outras providências. Diário Oficial da União, Brasília, DF, n. 141, p. 87, 25 jul. 2017.

Brasil. (2023). Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária - Anvisa. Resolução da diretoria colegiada - RDC nº 814, de 1º de setembro de 2023. Estabelece as condições temporárias para a regularização, comercialização e uso de produtos destinados a fixar e/ou modelar os cabelos e altera a Resolução de Diretoria Colegiada RDC nº 752, de 19 de setembro de 2022. Diário Oficial da União, Brasília, DF, n. 172, p. 110, 8 set. 2023.

Brasil. (2024). Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária - Anvisa. Resolução da diretoria colegiada – RDC nº 949, de 12 de dezembro de 2024. Altera a Resolução da Diretoria Colegiada – RDC n° 907, de 19 de setembro de 2024, e internaliza a Resolução GMC MERCOSUL n° 18/2023. Diário Oficial da União, Brasília, DF, n. 242, p. 128, 16 dez. 2024.

Caltabiano, A. M., Foley, J. P., & Barth, H. G. (2016). Size exclusion chromatography of synthetic polymers and biopolymers on common reversed phase and hydrophilic interaction chromatography columns. Journal of Chromatography A, 1437, 74–87. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chroma.2016.01.055

Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks Jr, J. G., Shank, R. C., Slaga, T. J., Snyder, P. W., & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of alkyl PEG/PPG ethers as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 60S–89S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816650626

Fiume, M. M. et al. (2012). Safety assessment of alkyl PEG ethers as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5_suppl.), 169S–244S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444141

Huang, T.-Y., Chi, L.-M., & Chien, K.-Y. (2018). Size-exclusion chromatography using reverse-phase columns for protein separation. Journal of Chromatography A, 1571, 201–212. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chroma.2018.08.020

Inderwies, J. et al. (2024). Investigation of crystallization fouling on column internals using a laboratory-scale setup. Chemie Ingenieur Technik, 96(3), 288–298. https://doi.org/10.1002/cite.202300219

Inmetro. (2020). Instituto Nacional de Metrologia, Qualidade e Tecnologia - Inmetro. Guia de orientação sobre validação de métodos analíticos: documento de caráter orientativo (DOQ-CGCRE-008, Revisão 09). Rio de Janeiro: Inmetro/CGCRE, 2020.

Jalaludin, I., & Kim, J. (2021). Comparison of ultraviolet and refractive index detections in the HPLC analysis of sugars. Food Chemistry, 365, 130514. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2021.130514

Krongrawa, W., Limmatvapirat, S., Saibua, S., & Limmatvapirat, C. (2022). Optimization of ultrasound-assisted extraction of yields and total methoxyflavone contents from Kaempferia parviflora rhizomes. Molecules, 27(13), 4162. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27134162

Mahmoud, R. A., & Elwakil, E. S. (2025). Out-of-step detection for synchronous generators using electrical power analysis and Durbin Watson testing. Scientific Reports, 15(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-025-03350-8

Monteiro, J. S. P. C. et al. (2024). Desenvolvimento de metodologia para análise de Ceteareth-20 em pomadas capilares modeladoras. In Livro de Resumos da XI Jornada Científica do INCQS (p. 29). Rio de Janeiro: INCQS/Fiocruz.

Mota, D. M. et al. (2025). Ações de mitigação de eventos adversos oculares relacionados a cosméticos para modelar cabelos no Brasil: estudo descritivo e correlacional (2022-2024). Epidemiologia e Serviços de Saúde, 34, e20240449. https://doi.org/10.1590/S2237-96222024v34e20240449.pt

Nascimento, R. F., Lima, A. C. A., Vidal, C. B., Melo, D. Q., & Raulino, G. S. C. (2014). Adsorção: aspectos teóricos e aplicações ambientais. Imprensa Universitária da Universidade Federal do Ceará.

Neßlinger, V., Rust, S., Atlanov, J., Pauer, W., & Grundmeier, G. (2024). Monitoring polymeric fouling in a continuous reactor by electrochemical impedance spectroscopy. Chemie Ingenieur Technik, 96(3), 291–299. https://doi.org/10.1002/cite.202300032

Pereira, A. S. et al. (2018). Metodologia da pesquisa científica. [Free ebook]. Santa Maria. Editora da UFSM.

Risemberg, R. I. C. et al. (2026). A importância da metodologia científica no desenvolvimento de artigos científicos. E-Acadêmica, 7(1), e0171675. https://eacademica.org/eacademica/article/view/675

Rodrigues, M. R. A. (2017). Desenvolvimento tecnológico e avaliação da qualidade de pomada capilar modeladora à base de álcool graxo etoxilado [Dissertação de mestrado, Universidade Federal do Paraná]. Acervo Digital UFPR. https://hdl.handle.net/1884/81250

Senra, E. L. (2019). Estudo do efeito dos aditivos químicos contidos na água produzida no processo de permeação com membranas cerâmicas. [Dissertação de mestrado, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Escola de Química]. Pantheon UFRJ. http://hdl.handle.net/11422/11796

Shodex. (2025). SUGAR SC1011 | 8.0 x 300 mm. https://www.shodex.de/product-page/sugar-sc1011

Stoll, D. R., & Seidl, C. (2019). Column re-equilibration following gradient elution: How long is long enough? Part I: Reversed-phase and HILIC separations of small molecules. LCGC North America, 37(11). https://www.chromatographyonline.com/view/column-re-equilibration-following-gradient-elution-how-long-long-enough-part-i-reversed-phase-and-hi

Tosoh Bioscience. (2010). Separation report no. 46: TSKgel SWXL series columns. https://www.separations.us.tosohbioscience.com/HPLC_Columns/id-8320/TSKgel_G2000SWxl

Zhang, H. et al. (2022). Effects of fatty alcohols with different chain lengths on the performance of low pH biomass-based foams for radioactive decontamination. Molecules, 27(19), 6627. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196627

Zhong, Z., Wang, X., Xu, X., & Chen, G. (2012). Ultrasound-assisted matrix solid-phase dispersive liquid extraction for the determination of intermediates in hair dyes with ion chromatography. Analytica Chimica Acta, 752, 53–61.

Published

2026-05-21

Issue

Section

Health Sciences

How to Cite

Development and Validation of an analytical method for the Identification and Quantification of Ceteareth in hair cosmetic formulations by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography with Refractive Index Detector (HPLC-RID). Research, Society and Development, [S. l.], v. 15, n. 5, p. e8515551109, 2026. DOI: 10.33448/rsd-v15i5.51109. Disponível em: https://rsdjournal.org/rsd/article/view/51109. Acesso em: 7 jun. 2026.