Development and stability evaluation of a facial cleanser formulation containing pomegranate extract (Punica granatum L.)
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.33448/rsd-v11i17.38435Keywords:
Cosmeceuticals; Pharmaceutical technology; Quality control; Stability study.Abstract
The present study aimed to develop and evaluate the stability of a facial liquid cleanser prepared with different pomegranate peel extracts (Punica granatum L.). For this, pomegranate peel extracts were prepared by two forms of solid-liquid extraction, soxhlet and maceration. Then, liquid cleanser formulations were developed containing 5% of the extracts obtained, which were subsequently subjected to a stability study, for a predefined period of 60 days, stored at room temperature (25.0 ± 3.0 ºC), under refrigeration (5.0 ± 3.0 ºC) and in a dryer oven (40.0 ± 3.0 ºC). Physicochemical analyses, such as evaluation of organoleptic characteristics (odor, color and general aspect), pH determination and centrifugation test, were performed at times t0, t7, t15, t30 and t60 days after formulation. Changes in color, pH and viscosity of the formulations subjected to heat were observed, with emphasis on the formulation prepared with the soxhlet extract stored in the oven (SE), while the formulations stored at room temperature remained stable. Based on the results, it is concluded that the formulations at room temperature of both extracts remained stable during the period of 60 days, when stored at an average of 25ºC ± 3ºC. Comparing the formulations, the formulation containing extract obtained by maceration showed greater stability in terms of viscosity and color characteristics. Therefore, further studies need to be carried out to evaluate the differences between the composition of extracts and impacts on stability, in addition to investigating the effectiveness of the formulation.
References
Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária. (2004). Guia de Estabilidade de Produtos Cosméticos [Série Qualidade em Cosméticos]. Brasília: ANVISA.
Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária. (2008). Guia de Controle de Qualidade de Produtos Cosméticos (2a ed.). Brasília: ANVISA.
Amado, J. M. (2020). Characterization of langmuir monolayers of cosmetics surfactants. Tese de doutorado, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brasil.
Antelo, F., & da Silva, L. (2021). Effects of temperature in degradation kinetics of anthocyanin from jamun fruit (Eugenia jambolana) using the arrhenius, eyring and ball models. Boletim do Centro de Pesquisa de Processamento de Alimentos, 37(2). doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.5380/bceppa.v37i2.65323
Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos (2019a). Panorama do Setor de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos. São Paulo: ABIHPEC.
Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos (2019b). Caderno de tendências 2019-2020: Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos. São Paulo: ABIHPEC.
Baki, G. & Alexander (2015). Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Bogdan, C., Iurian, S., Tomuta, I., & Moldovan, M. (2017). Improvement of skin condition in striae distensae: development, characterization and clinical efficacy of a cosmetic product containing Punica granatum seed oil and Croton lechleri resin extract. Drug design, development and therapy, 11, 521–531.
Cecchi, H. M. (2003). Fundamentos teóricos e práticos em análise de alimentos (2a ed.). Editora da UNICAMP.
Corrêa, M. A. (2012). Cosmetologia: Ciência e Técnica. Medfarma.
Dini, I., & Laneri, S. (2021). The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 26(13), 3921. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26133921
Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(1), 8-14.
Dutta, B. K. (2009). Principles of mass transfer and separation processes (3rd Ed.). New Delhi: PHI.
Fatima, A., Alok, S., Agarwal, P., Singh, P. P., & Verma, A. (2013). Benefits of herbal extracts in cosmetics: a review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 4(10), 3746.
Fonseca-Santos, B., Corrêa, M. A. & Chorilli, M. (2015). Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: Consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 51(1), 17–26.
Ge, S., Duo, L., Wang, J., Yang, J., Li, Z., & Tu, Y. (2021). A unique understanding of traditional medicine of pomegranate, Punica granatum L. and its current research status. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 271, 113877.
Hawkins, S., Dasgupta, B. R., & Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P. (2021). Role of pH in skin cleansing. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 43(4), 474-483.
Higioka, A. S. & Barzotto, I. L. M. (2013). Desenvolvimento e controle físico-químico de sabonete líquido com digluconato de clorexidina. Revista de ciências farmacêuticas básica e aplicada, 34 (4), 537-543.
Instituto Adolfo Lutz (2008). Zenebon, O., Pascuet, N. S. & Tiglea, P. (Coord.). Métodos físicoquímicos para análise de alimentos (4º Edição - 1º Versão eletrônica). São Paulo: Instituto Adolfo Lutz.
JoVE Science Education Database (2022). Organic Chemistry. Solid-Liquid Extraction. JoVE, Cambridge, MA.
Jurenka, J. (2008). Therapeutic Applications of Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.): A Review. Alternative Medicine Review, 13(2), 128–144.
Ko, K., Dadmohammadi, Y., & Abbaspourrad, A. (2021). Nutritional and bioactive components of pomegranate waste used in food and cosmetic applications: A review. Foods, 10(3), 657.
Lampakis, D., Skenderidis, P. & Leontopoulos, S. (2021) Technologies and Extraction Methods of Polyphenolic Compounds Derived from Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Peels. A Mini Review (Phenolic Profiling and Antioxidant Capacity in Agrifood Products). Processes, 9, 236. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr9020236
Lee, C.-J., Chen, L.-G., Liang, W.-L., & Wang, C.-C. (2017). Multiple Activities of Punica granatum Linne against Acne Vulgaris. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 18(1), 141. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms18010141
Mohd-Nasir, H. & Mohd-Setapar, S. H. (2018). Natural ingredients in cosmetics from Malaysian plants: a review. Sains Malaysiana, 47(5), 951-959.
More, P. R. & Arya, S. S. (2021) Intensification of bio-actives extraction from pomegranate peel using pulsed ultrasound: Effect of factors, correlation, optimization and antioxidant bioactivities, Ultrasonics Sonochemistry, 72, 105423.
Nogueira, R. I., Falcão Paim, D. R. S., Cornejo, F. E. P., Mariano, E. S., Barreto, A. S., Freitas, S. P. (2012). Drying Kinetics of Pomegranate (Punica Granatum) Peels. International conference of agricultural engineering: agriculture & engineering for a healthier life, Valencia, Spain, 2012.
Oliveira, L. M. L. (2016). Punica granatum: quantificação de polifenóis de extratos e potencial antifúngico contra Candida albicans. Tese de doutorado. Universidade Estadual Paulista "Júlio de Mesquita Filho", Araçatuba, SP, Brasil.
Ormonde, B., Nunes, J. & Ribeiro, O. (2018). Extração de Compostos Fenólicos a Partir da Casca de Romã (Relatório de pesquisa/2018), Coimbra, Portugal, Operações Unitárias em Biotecnologia, Escola Superior Agrária, Politécnico de Coimbra.
Priego-Capote, F. (2021) Solid–liquid extraction techniques. In R. Lucena & S. Cárdenas (Ed.) Analytical sample preparation with nano- and other high-performance materials (Chap. 6). Cambridge, MA: Elsevier.
Rababah, T. M., Banat, F., Rababah, A., Ereifej, K. & Yang, W. (2010). Optimization of extraction conditions of total phenolics, antioxidant activities, and anthocyanin of oregano, thyme, terebinth, and pomegranate. Journal of Food Science, 75 (7), C626-C632.
Reis, C. M. S., & Reis-Filho, E. (2017). Cleansers. In M. C. A. Issa & B. Tamura (Eds.) Daily Routine in Cosmetic Dermatology (Series Clinical Approaches and Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology). Cham, Switzerland: Springer.
Romanowski, P. & Schueller, R (2006). Stability testing of cosmetic products. In M. Paye, A. O. Barel & H. I. Maibach (Eds.). Handbook of cosmetic science and technology (Chap. 50). Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
Singh, B., Singh, J. P., Kaur, A., & Singh, N. (2018). Phenolic compounds as beneficial phytochemicals in pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) peel: A review. Food chemistry, 261, 75-86.
Singh, M., Jha, A., Kumar, A., Hettiarachchy, N., Rai, A. K., & Sharma, D. (2014). Influence of the solvents on the extraction of major phenolic compounds (punicalagin, ellagic acid and gallic acid) and their antioxidant activities in pomegranate aril. Journal of food science and technology, 51(9), 2070–2077.
Soares, S. E. (2002). Ácidos fenólicos como antioxidantes. Revista de nutrição, 15, 71-81.
Staszak, K., Wieczorek, D., & Michocka, K. (2015). Effect of sodium chloride on the surface and wetting properties of aqueous solutions of cocamidopropyl betaine. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 18(2), 321-328.
Statista (2022). Natural Cosmetics - Worldwide | Statista Market Forecast. Recuperado em 11 março, 2022, de https://www.statista.com/outlook/cmo/beauty-personal-care/cosmetics/natural-cosmetics/worldwide
Tamborlin, L., Sumere, B. R., de Souza, M. C., Pestana, N. F., Aguiar, A. C., Eberlin, M. N., Simabuco, F. M., Rostagno, M. A., & Luchessi, A. D. (2020). Characterization of pomegranate peel extracts obtained using different solvents and their effects on cell cycle and apoptosis in leukemia cells. Food science & nutrition, 8(10), 5483–5496.
Vital, K. L. (2014). Extração e quantificação dos compostos fenólicos da romã. Monografia. Fundação Educacional do Município de Assis - FEMA - Assis, SP, Brasil.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2022 Félix Vieira Junior; Antonio Auberson Martins Maciel; Cybelle Façanha Barreto Medeiros Linard; Raquell de Castro Chaves
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:
1) Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
2) Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
3) Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work.
