O uso dos óleos vegetais na prevenção do envelhecimento da pele

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.33448/rsd-v10i1.11941

Keywords:

Vegetable oils; Antioxidants; Cosmeceuticals; Skin aging.

Abstract

Theoretical framework: Vegetable oils in the cosmetics market are gaining more and more notoriety because they contain mainly antioxidants as bioactive substances. Free radicals are one of the main responsible for skin aging, which is characterized by the set of inevitable changes that occur progressively in our body and is classified as intrinsic and extrinsic aging, leading to visual changes in both the epidermis and dermis due to the decrease in fibers collagen, elastic and glycosaminoglycans. Although it is currently impossible to prevent or reverse genetic processes of intrinsic aging, the changes caused by free radicals that trigger extrinsic aging can be prevented naturally with the use of oil-based cosmeceuticals. Objective: To review studies in the literature on the use of vegetable oils to prevent skin aging. Material and Methods: A qualitative review of the narrative-type literature was carried out, consulting scientific articles indexed in the electronic databases, SCIENCE DIRECT, SciELO, LILACS, MedLine and PubMed. Results: A current trend in the market for increasingly safer, biocompatible and effective cosmetics is to combine vegetable oils with antioxidant characteristics with other natural and / or synthetic actives in order to provide different functions and associated effects, such as combating premature aging and provide elasticity, firmness, hydration, among other benefits. Conclusion: Brazil has become a primordial country due to the abundance of natural resources in its forest, offering plant ingredients made up of bioactive compounds to the world scenario that work to combat the damage caused by free radicals.

Author Biographies

Suellen Christtine da Costa Sanches, Federal University of Pará

Pharmacist graduated in 2011 from the Federal University of Pará (UFPA). She completed her Qualification in Biochemistry and achieved the title of Master in Pharmaceutical Sciences in 2013 by the Federal University of Pará (UFPA). She worked as an intern / scholarship holder for two years (2008-2009; 2009-2010), of scientific initiation at the Toxicology Laboratory of the Evandro Chagas Institute (IEC / CNPq), developing research projects related to environmental contamination by mercury. She worked during the Master's period with Physico-Chemical Characterization techniques and Toxicological Assessment methods to assess the safety of polymers and copolymers. She worked for 3 years in commercial pharmacy and as a hospital pharmacist in a state public hospital with ONA 2 certification. Currently she is a doctoral student in the Pharmaceutical Innovation program at the Federal University of Pará, being part of the Development and Innovation of Pharmaceutical and / or Cosmetic Products group of the Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Nanotechnology (NANOFARM).    

José Otávio Carréra Silva-Júnior, Federal University of Pará

Graduated in Pharmacy from the Federal University of Pará (1990), Master (2000) and Doctorate (2006) in Pharmaceutical Sciences from the Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo. He is currently Associate Professor III and Researcher at the Federal University of Pará-UFPA. He held the following positions: Vice-Director of the Faculty of Pharmacy (2007-2009), Coordinator of the Graduate Program in Pharmaceutical Sciences - PPGCF (2009 - 2011 and 2011 - 2013), Coordinator of the Graduate Program in Pharmaceutical Innovation - PPGIF Doctorate Level (2013 - 2015 and 2015 - 2017), where he works as a Permanent Professor in both Programs. He has experience in the Pharmacy area, with an emphasis on Pharmaceuticals and Medicines, acting mainly on the following themes: a) Research, development and innovation of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products; b) Technological development of herbal medicines; c) Study of the pharmacotechnical functionality of excipients in formulations; d) Development and evaluation of micro and nanostructured systems and pharmaceutical applications; e) Research and development of innovative cosmetic formulations using oils from plant species of the Amazon; f) Standardization of plant extracts (liquid and spray dried - Spray Drying).

Roseane Maria Ribeiro-Costa, Federal University of Pará

Graduated in Full Degree in Chemistry from the Federal Rural University of Pernambuco (1999); Master (2003) and Doctorate (2008) in Pharmaceutical Sciences from the Federal University of Pernambuco with the Thesis developed at the Institute of Technological Research of the State of São Paulo and at the Ecole des Mines d´Albi-Carmaux, France. She was a servant of the technical staff of the Faculty of Pharmacy of the Federal University of Pernambuco (1995 to 2008). She is currently Associate Professor II who works in research, teaching and extension at the Federal University of Pará, where she is Coordinator of the Pharmaceutical Nanotechnology Laboratory (NANOFARM). She was Vice-coordinator of the Graduate Program in Pharmaceutical Sciences / UFPA Master's Degree (02/2013 to 10/2015) and local coordinator of the Graduate Program in Pharmaceutical Innovation? Network Program, Doctoral Level, formed by the following HEIs Associated UFG, UNIFAP and UFAM (2017-2019 and 2020-Current). She was a Productivity Scholarship Developer. Tec. and CNPq's Innovative Extension - Level 2 (2013- 2016 and 2016-2019). She has experience in the Pharmacy area, with an emphasis on the following themes: Innovative technology in the production of new medicines and cosmetics, using vegetable oils and fats from the Amazon region; Controlled release systems for drugs and vaccines; Use of agro-industrial by-products; Technological development of herbal medicines; Standardization of plant extracts; and Development of dosage methods by HPLC. Supervisor of the Graduate Programs in Pharmaceutical Sciences (Master's) and Pharmaceutical Innovation (Doctorate). She guides students of Scientific Initiation (PIBIC and PIBITI scholarships) and high school.

References

Al-Obaidi, J. R., Halabi, M. F., AlKhalifah, N. S., Asanar, S., Al-Soqeer, A. A., & Attia, M. F. (2017). A review on plant importance, biotechnological aspects, and cultivation challenges of jojoba plant. Biological research, 50(1), 1-9.

Alesa Gyles, D., Pereira Júnior, A. D., Diniz Castro, L., Santa Brigida, A., Nobre Lamarão, M. L., Ramos Barbosa, W. L., Carréra Silva Júnior, J. O., & Ribeiro-Costa, R. M. (2020). Polyacrylamide-Metilcellulose Hydrogels Containing Aloe barbadensis Extract as Dressing for Treatment of Chronic Cutaneous Skin Lesions. Polymers, 12(3), 690-709.

Baril, M. B. et al. (2012). Nanotechnology applied to cosmetics. Academic Vision, 13(1), 45-54.

Burlando, B. et al. (2010). Principles of herbs in cosmetics: Properties and mechanisms of action. CRC Press, 1(1), 460.

Calle, F. R. et al. (2009). A Global overview of vegetable oils, with reference to biodiesel. IEA bioenergy report, 89.

Carvalho, I. T., Estevinho Berta, N., & Santos, L. (2016). Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products–a review. International journal of cosmetic science, 38(2), 109-119.

Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Active Agents in Common Skin Care Products. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 125(2), 719-724.

Dunn, J. H., & Koo, J. (2013). Psychological Stress and skin aging: A review of possible mechanisms and potential therapies. Dermatology Online Journal, 19(6), 155-161.

Faria, P. M., Camargo, L. N., Carvalho, R. S. H., Paludetti, L. A., Velasco, M. V. R., & da Gama, R. M. (2013). Hair protective effect of Argan oil (Argania spinosa Kernel oil) and Cupuassu butter (Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter) post treatment with hair dye. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 3(3), 40.

Favacho, A. S. H. et al. (2011). Anti-inflammtory and antinociceptive activities of Euterpe oleracea oil. Brazilian Jornal of Pharmacognosy, 21(1), 105-114.

Ferreira, E. C. et al. (2011). Comparative analysis of skin healing as an intraperitoneal use of aqueous extract of Orbignya phalerata (babassu), a comparative study in rats. Acta Cirurgica Brasileira, 21(3), 66-75.

Flores, G., Wu, S., Negrin, A., & Kennelly E. J. (2015). Chemical composition and antioxidant activity of seven cultivars of guava (Psidium guajava) fruits. Food Chemistry, 170(1), 327-335.

Foppa, T., Bertotto, C., & De Mello, S. S. G. (2013). Desenvolvimento a avaliação de eficácia de formulação cosmética contendo extrato de soja (glycine max) para o tratamento de estrias. Revista Interdisciplinar de Estudos em Saúde, 2(2), 139-153.

Freitas, V. S., Rodrigues, R. A. F., & Gaspi, F. O. G. (2014). Propriedades farmacológicas da Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f. Revista brasileira de plantas medicinais, 16(2), 299-307.

Graf, J. (2010). Antioxidants and Skin Care: The Essentials. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 125(1), 378-383.

Haida, K. S. et al. (2015). Phenolic Compounds and Antioxidant Activity of Guava (Psidium guajava L.) Fresh and Frozen. Fitos Magazine, 9(1), 1-72.

Henrique, A. S. & Lopes, G. C. (2017). Biodiversity and the cosmetics industry: the use of flavonoids against skin aging. Uningá Magazine, 29(2), 58-63.

Lima Yamaguchi, K. K., Pereira, L. F. R., Lamarão, C. V., Lima, E. S., & da Veiga-Junior, V. F. (2015). Amazon acai: Chemistry and biological activities: A review. Food chemistry, 179(57), 137-151.

Lopes, L. G., Sousa, C. F., & Libera, L. S. D. (2017). Biological effects of ultraviolet radiation and its role in skin carcinogenesis: a review. Refacer, 6(2), 117-146.

Loureiro Contente, D. M., Rocha Pereira, R., Cruz Rodrigues, A. M., Da Silva, E. O., Ribeiro-Costa, R. M. & Carrera Silva-Júnior, J. O. (2020). Nanoemulsions of açai oil: physicochemical characterization for topical delivery antifungal drug. Chemical engineering & technology, 43(7), 1424-1432.

Malanchen, B. E., Da Silva, F. A., Gottardi, T., Terra, D. A., & Bernardi, D. M. (2019). Composição e propriedades fisiológicas e funcionais da aveia. Fag journal of health, 1(2), 185-200.

Miguel, L. M. (2011). Tendências do uso de produtos naturais nas indústrias de cosméticos da França. Revista Geográfica de América Central, 2, 1-15.

Pereira, S. A et al. (2013). Prospecting on the knowledge of Amazonian species - inajá (Maximiliana maripa Aublt.) And bacaba (Oenocarpus bacaba Mart.). GEINTEC journal. 3(2), 110-122.

Pereira A.S. et al. (2018). Metodologia da pesquisa científica. [e-book]. Santa Maria. Ed. UAB / NTE / UFSM.

Pereira, J. C., Ferreira, M. R. S., Neves, M. C., Freitas, T. C. C., Martinez, V. S., & Talhati, F. (2019). Skin aging and cosmetic skin care for men. Research and Action, 5(1), 26-34.

Pires, L. K. S. et al. (2017). The use of plants from the Amazon in the production of bioproducts for skin treatments. Biomedical Research Journal, 9(1), 78-88.

Ramalho, H. F., & Suarez, P. A. Z. (2013). A Chemistry of Oils and Fats and their Extraction and Refining Processes. Virtual Journal of Chemistry, 5(1), 2-15.

Santos Costa, M. N. F., Muniz, M. A. P., Negrão, C. A. B., Costa, C. E. F., Lamarão, M. L. N., Morais, L., Silva Júnior, J. O. C. & Ribeiro Costa, R. M. (2014). Characterization of Pentaclethra macroloba oil. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 115(3), 2269-2275.

Santos, W. N. L. et al. (2017). Simultaneous determination of 13 phenolic bioactive compounds in guava (Psidium guajava L.) by HPLC-PAD with evaluation using PCA and Neural Network Analysis (NNA). Microchemical Journal, 133(1), 583-592.

Silva, D. B. et al. (2010). Buriti. 2010 Frutas Nativas Series. Commemorative Edition of the 40 years of SBF, 52.

Silva, O. M., & Brito, J. Q. A. (2017). The Advancement of Aesthetics in the Aging Process: A Literature Review. Id on Line Multidisciplinary and Psycology Journal, 11(35), 424-440.

Silva da Costa, R., De Farias Silva, N., Gabbay Alves, T. V., Fernandes Da Silva, M., Do Socorro Barros Brasil, D., Ribeiro-Costa, R. M., Converti, A., & Carréra Silva, J. O. (2019). Antioxidant Activity of an Industrial Cupuassu Seed By-product: Molecular Modeling of Phenolic Compounds. Chemical engineering & technology, 42(1), 397-406.

Silva, N. C. S., De Moraes, A. L. S., Martins, D. A., Andrade, L. M., & Pereira, R. S. F. (2019). Cosmetology: origin, evolution and trends. SINGLE Academic Notebooks, 2(1), 1-13.

Silva, A. F., Silva, E. T. C., Costa, S. R. R., Bezerra, P. L., Lourenço, A. H. A., Bernadino, I. M. (2021). O uso do aloe vera como coadjuvante no tratamento periodontal. Research, Society and Development, 10(1), 1-6.

Souza, R. A. L., Matos, R. R. L., Ventura, L. M., Pinho, L. D., Santos, A. A. A., & Marques, M. S. (2019). Skin cancer: strategies for photoprotection and sun exposure in community health agents. Unimontes scientific journal, 1(1), 1-13.

Tozzo, M., Bertoncello, L., & Bender S. (2012). Biocosmetic or organic cosmetic: literature review. Revista Thêma et Scientia, 2(1), 122-130.

Yamaguchi, K. L. et al. (2015). Amazon acai: Chemistry and biological activities. Food Chemistry, 179(1), 137-151.

Downloads

Published

24/01/2021

How to Cite

SANCHES, S. C. da C. .; SILVA-JÚNIOR, J. O. C. .; RIBEIRO-COSTA, R. M. O uso dos óleos vegetais na prevenção do envelhecimento da pele . Research, Society and Development, [S. l.], v. 10, n. 1, p. e44010111941, 2021. DOI: 10.33448/rsd-v10i1.11941. Disponível em: https://rsdjournal.org/index.php/rsd/article/view/11941. Acesso em: 16 apr. 2024.

Issue

Section

Review Article